My Chicago Trip:

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https://youtu.be/akp4I0yiJ9Y

Written By: Brandon Renbaum
November 29, 2021

Chicago is my favorite large sized city in this great country. It has everything New York has in terms of food, culture, transportation, exciting people, beautiful women, and class. So what happened to this world class city? Why are people leaving it and why is it now a war-zone? These questions are complex and as old as the city’s bootlegging, corrupt past. However, we shouldn’t be surprised by Chicago these days because its history has always been violent and corrupt. However, for all its problems, Chicago stands strong and proud in the eyes of its residents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

First..The Good:

 Chicago has this strange aura of symmetry and aesthetic delight in its appearance. It feels very unique and almost old fashioned. This is because Chicago has some of the most unique architecture in the world. Where else can you take a boat tour that focuses exclusively on city’s architecture? When it comes to city sky lines, Chicago takes the cake in my opinion. Situated right along Lake Michigan, its unique character and presence really comes out when flying into the city from the west or south.

  Chicago is a city of neighborhoods. They differ from New York neighborhoods where differences usually amount to certain subtleties like cost of living or social status. Chicago neighborhoods are like different worlds, each zip-code looks and feels different from the next. It’s hard to describe because each neighborhood is distinctly Chicago, but at the same time is home to various ethnicities, businesses, social classes, restaurants, and mentalities from around the world. It’s a city that still preserves the values and grit of the blue collar midwest, but marches to a beat that only native Chicagoans understand.  Chicago is very segregated from a racial standpoint. You won’t find many black people downtown, especially in The Loop. When you look at neighborhoods like Logan Square, Linkin Park, and Near North (where most working class people live: both white and blue collar): they are distinct in character. Linkin Park is a mixture of college hipsters and old timers who never really left the city. Logan Square is a “transitional neighborhood” – a gentrified area that used to house some of the most legendary night clubs in the country. Half of the neighborhood is being cleaned up with coffee shops, decent apartments and good restaurants, while the other half is full of drug dealers, abandoned/closed down businesses, and prostitutes. Why do I mention these neighborhoods? Because these are the places where normal, working class people live and work.These are the neighborhoods where you can get an authentic feel for the city by talking to it’s residents. I’m “The Western Nomad” or just a lone wolf in actuality, so I have become very comfortable making small talk with strangers. When you move far away from where you grew up, strangers are your best friends. The people I run into during my travels are my teachers.  Everyone knows the worst parts of Chicago are the south and west sides. Murder and gang violence seems to be concentrated in these areas. However, it’s actually occurring everywhere. People are dying on Michigan Avenue for just eating breakfast. Two men were shot three hours after I left the Logan Square neighborhood. It’s these close calls that scare the people living in Chicago.  The Loop and Riverwalk neighborhoods are where the rich, white elites live. Corrupt politicians, government officials, wall-street bankers, and tourists can be found in these areas. The rich architecture, stunning bridges, space like parking garages, and some of the best shopping in the world are found in The Loop. The loop is named after the transit system “The L” (for elevated) where several lines converge into one area in a circle. It’s very similar to how the D.C. transit operates: color coded and converging in various connecting stations like L’Efant Plaza and Chinatown. The Chicago transit system is slightly harder to navigate because of the number of lines and destinations. When you walk into a car on the metro and the only place to sit is with the crazy crack head yelling gibberish..you start to see where the problems are coming from. This particular crack head was giving me some lip for wearing a red shirt, he thought I was a republican and made it very clear he didn’t like white republicans. I actually found this refreshing after living in Colorado Springs. I sometimes take for granted how tame and civilized The Springs are compared to 90% of this country’s big cities. It reminded me of Baltimore and New York, where your primary mode of thought and attitude is survival and holding face.  The Food: Anyone who has visited Chicago will tell you the food scene is amazing. I really think there are more Italian restaurants here than in New York, but I’m the New Yorkers reading this will disagree.. However, this is the midwest..so folks like their meat. This translates into the iconic “Chicago Dog,” served at places like Portillos and Luke’s where you get a hotdog in a sesame bun served with pickles, relish, tomatoes, onions, mustard, and god knows what else. They kick New York hotdogs in the ass! Chicago always sports Italian steaks, which I didn’t know was a thing. Italian beef is apparently some of the best and these places are everywhere in Chicago. I couldn’t really afford these steaks, but I hear they are memorable.  If you want the best Italian meal of your life, I recommend you go to Viaggios on west Madison. This is a local joint and it’s apparent when you walk in. They give you your own olive oil, pepper, parmesan cheese, and roasted red peppers before the meal. It’s basically heaven if you enjoy Italian cuisine. Plus the bartender is a loud, gay Italian: so you will be amused if you sit at the bar. I could write an entire essay on Chicago food, but it’s been done before. Let’s get back to the more important issues. 
Portillos Chicago Dog  What’s happening to this great city? When you turn on the news (local or national), Chicago is making headlines for all the wrong reasons. Crime has become so bad and prevalent that most people I talked with have witnessed murder and it’s effects on the human psyche. Some die while eating breakfast, others while waiting for a bus home from work. Crime here seems to be random and without motive; that’s why it’s scarier than crimes in other cities and makes headlines across the nation.  Chicago is called “The Windy City ” not because of its high winds, but because of it’s long winded politicians. The corruption in this city can be traced back to the days of Al Capone and prohibition. Violence, bribery, and extortion was the norm back in the 1920’s and 30s and it’s just taken a new form in today’s political climate in Chicago.  Now let’s add these ingredients for disaster to the city of Chicago: Covid 19, vaccine mandates, police quitting/dying, high unemployment, crazy housing costs, court systems not operating at full scale, segregation, city officials not willing to investigate certain crimes, and less prosecution and punishment for various crimes. It’s no wonder why Chicago is spiraling out of control, it’s the perfect storm.  The only real hope for turning the city around are the grassroot organizations that have boots on the ground. Basically ex gang-bangers and drug dealers who have turned their lives around and now want to help the disenfranchised youths in the west and south neighborhoods. This is happening, but you won’t hear about it on the news. These grass root organizers roam the most dangerous neighborhoods in Chicago and have honest conversations with those affected or involved in violent crimes. They offer housing, job assistance, cognitive behavioral therapy, and any resources available at their hands to improve the lives of the most desperate. Change starts with the mind and is followed by resources that provide opportunity. There are some amazing people in south Chicago really trying to make a difference, but they are under funded. A lot of these grass root organizations no longer exist because they are not funded at all anymore. The money in Chicago always seems to go back to those who need it the least and perpetuate the city’s problems.  I have no quick answers or deeply profound solutions to solving Chicago’s problems. I’m really not the kind of guy who examines this kind of stuff, but when visiting Chicago and talking with it’s residents..I feel the answer starts with them. It should start with the people just trying to live their lives and succeed under tough circumstances. Grassroots lead to larger roots, and once large roots take hold in the ground they grow forever. Perhaps change should start from the bottom instead of the top.  The Music: Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Willie Dixon, Buddy Guy..these guys define Chicago blues. Chicago has a rhythm and vibe like no other city in the country. Why? Because of its location. The midwest and specifically The Mississippi River brought some of the most talented blues artists from the south up to the great city of Chicago. It’s uniquely African American at its core. Where else can you find a mural of Muddy Waters in the center of a huge city? Only in Chicago..sweet home Chicago!  Blues wasn’t exactly invented here, but it was transformed into the mainstream thanks to guys like Howlin’ Wolf and Muddy Waters performing live. Their energy and charisma fascinated crowds of all colors. Stories of hard times were conveyed in the lyrics and body language of these great performers. These were just mesmerizing, you could feel their pain when singing. Hard times create amazing art if you are an artist. Do you think Bob Dylan could have written such amazing lyrics without enduring the harsh winters and racism of Duluth, Minnesota? I think not! 

   Chicago is known for its old school blues clubs. I had the honor to go to Buddy Guy’s Legends down in the south loop for a night I will never forget. When I arrived in this dark lit club the music and atmosphere overtook me. I saw Gibson and Fender guitars hanging from the walls and pictures of my favorite musicians (Keith Richards, Eric Clapton, Derek Trucks, Buddy Guy, Howlin Wolf, Stevie Wonder, etc). It was the real deal Chicago blues scene. Old black blue’s cats playing the typical 12-bar blues songs that I have come to learn and love. I sat alone at a little black table, accompanied by a small candle, slowly swaying to the sounds of Chicago. I spent four hours at this club taking everything in. I was in heaven. The highlight was talking to this old black guy who looked like a pimp about our favorite blues artists. He was dressed in a purple suit, black turtleneck, big gold chain, purple top hat and a cane sported with diamonds. Here I was this little skinny white boy from Baltimore talking with a pimp from the inner city of Chicago because we shared the same love for blues. Music is powerful because: it brings all walks of life together out of shared passions. I’ve met some of the most interesting people and good friends in my life because of music..Chicago reminded me of that fact. It was a bittersweet night, but one I will cherish forever.   The People: If you live in Chicago you better be tough. This is a no bullshit town. Yet, the people still have that friendly mid-western demeanor. The pace of Chicago is slow for a city of its size, but it’s definitely not as slow as the south. The people that make up the midwest have this aura of confidence and ease in their demeanor that I just don’t see on the east and west coasts. It’s like they know they are badasses, but they don’t flaunt it. They are not afraid to call you out on your shit, but afterwards they will buy you a beer afterwards and invite you to their church as well.  I talked with a lot of people who have lived in the city for decades. People born here love the town despite its problems. Chicago pride runs deep and it should since it’s such a unique city. People here are aware of the crime, but it doesn’t slow them down. In Chicago you are aware and on alert at all times, but you don’t dare show any signs of fear. This town is not for the frail or weak willed. It’s a city where you must grind it out to survive in. It’s a large city with a blue collar mentality, imagine that!  Chicago is a city where you must choose a side when it comes to sports. Beer, hotdogs, Italian beef, brutal winters, and tall blonde girls make this city what it is. It’s a city that is always changing and adapting to the times. You will never be bored in Chicago because this city has it all. Want to pretend you live in the 1920’s and go to an authentic speakeasy with live jazz any day of the week? Chicago is your town. I would move to Chicago in a heartbeat if it wasn’t so dangerous. Perhaps Chicago will recover from its bad PR problem just like the people recover from the harsh winters. I look forward to seeing how Chicago carries itself in the next decade. I can only hope that it will be restored to its true nature; a world class city that houses the best of what the midwest and America has to offer. What else can I say? I just love sweet home Chicago!